Tinned fish, pimentos, fried pickles, cheese curds and crispy tater tots are all on the menu at Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery. They offer ‘Tinned fish of the day’ served with crackers, seasonal pickles and country style mustard. 

Years ago ‘fish in a tin can’ meant tuna and sardines. This centuries-old way to preserve and eat fish has been a part of daily life in many parts of the world. Now it’s a craze in California. Tin tops peeled back reveal glistening fish and oysters enhanced with a variety of spices and oils to complement their natural sea flavors. 

I learned about Agnes Restaurant and Cheesery from friends Anna, Elaine and Kait who said it was one of their favorite newer restaurants. They encouraged my husband and I to try it during brunch or dinner service. 

Located in a former firehouse horse stable built in 1922, the historic brick wall building in Old Town Pasadena is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Years later it became the Firehouse Recording Studios.

When chef and partner Thomas Tilaka Kalb, along with his cheese monger wife Vanessa attended a cheese school in San Francisco, Chef Thomas and Vanessa become enamored with cheese and each other.

Acquiring the building, they thoughtfully renovated it and named it after Thomas’ beloved grandmother Mary Agnes. Cheese boards and tinned fish trays along with bottles of cold rose’ wine are some of the most ordered items on the front dining area on Green Street, and inside the main dining room. 

Arriving during brunch service, we appreciated the retro mid-century chairs and tables, plus the plaid upholstered banquette, and beautiful soaring wood beam ceiling. This light and bright room overlooks the open kitchen, bar and lounge, plus the cheesery and takeaway counter.

Noticing Chef Thomas standing at the counter of the open kitchen, I watched as he inspected every dish presented to him from his kitchen staff. He raised his arm up in the air signaling to servers that a dish was ready to be delivered.  

The menu at Agnes offers an array of classic American regional comfort foods. When a sweet warm banana nut muffin arrived, my eyes widened when I noticed it was displayed on a beautiful Franciscan Desert Rose plate. My grandmother used to serve meals during family gathering on Franciscan apple pattern plates. 

We also ordered a mushroom frittata that looked more like a quiche, that was served with a side endive salad. When the Cuban melt sandwich arrived on housemade bread with melted ivory-colored Riojana cheese, we enjoyed the tangy butter pickles and Dijonnaise spread with slices of ham and pulled pork cooked in a mojo sauce. Crunchy and lightly salted plantain chips toppled over on the plate. 

For dessert we ordered a stack of sticky toffee pancakes made with chopped medjool dates, and topped with slightly sweet toffee caramel and whipped cream. 

Other popular brunch fare includes the new smoked salmon provolone melt served with a spicy tartar sauce; a turkey Monte Cristo, and a summer quinoa bowl topped with crushed avocado, summer squash, blistered and chilled sweet peppers, Essex St. feta and a six-minute egg.

Taking a tour with Chef Thomas after our meal, he pointed out some nostalgic items displayed around the restaurant. One wall honors Grandma Agnes’ beautiful china plates. Another wall displays a sentimental canvas piece painted with soil, charcoal, crushed rocks and seashells. “It’s a commissioned piece by Melissa Dickenson’s,” said Chef Thomas. “It represents some of our favorite travel destinations around the world.” The artist crushed some shells given to her from the couples travels. “We also gave her a handful of soil taken during the renovation to honor the building and earth it stands on,” said Chef Thomas.

Stopping at the full bar within the wine shop, Chef Thomas said, “Agnes liked to drink just one gin and tonic cocktail when company visited.” Guests can enjoy one too.

Looking at the wines on wooden shelves, we noticed a range of reasonable wine prices. “Our wine list is extensive with a variety of sparkling wines, whites, reds, rose and skin contact wines.” 

The shop offers an array of crackers, tinned fish, cookies, chocolates and chips. “We also make our own jams, crackers, pickles and chips that guests can purchase for their own picnic,” said Chef Thomas.

While watching staff members assemble cheese boards and tinned fish trays, we learned the refrigerated case holds 60 to 80 different cheeses from all over the world. “We have a great mid-Western selection,” said Chef Thomas. 

Taking us out to the secluded outdoor patio in the back of the restaurant, we noticed this area has a retractable roof. It’s a picturesque spot to dine outside on a warm summer night. “Green tile table tops are a nod to the street name, and also to the sea foam color green that Mary Agnes liked,” said Chef Thomas.

There is also a private dining room that can accommodate 20 guests for seated dinner. “This is great for parties, and is also used for cheese making and classes,” said Chef Thomas. 

Before we left, we looked at the dinner menu featuring some new seasonal dishes. Some that caught our eye included Reuben ravioli filled with corned beef and sauerkraut soubise and topped with a mustard cream sauce. There is a fried pickles and cheese curds appetizer served with buffalo bleu-cheese dressing, and a carrot and celery salad. They also assemble a Pachamama picnic platter that includes grilled pork belly, jalapeño Cheddarwurst, Mojo pork shoulder, bacon pimento Mac n’ cheese, marinated pea salad and cornbread muffins.

During the month of July, picnic boxes for two people are available for takeaway. Go online to select a tinned fish box for $60 or a cheese and crudite’ box at $65. They can customize the box with alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages. 

Also online, cheese fans can learn more about the quarterly cheese club starting at $75. Members receive a variety of cheeses, accompaniments, tips and a few surprises. 

Hands-on cheese classes are taught by Vanessa too. Classes kick off with a glass of bubbly, and students learn how to properly buy and store cheese, create interesting pairings, and build beautiful cheese boards of their own. The intimate, two-hour sessions capped at 12 students includes tastings of different milk types of cheese styles.

Come be enlightened to the rich world of cheese, tinned fish and comfort food at Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Brunch is available Wednesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to  2 p.m., and they offer a midday menu on Wednesday through Saturday from 2 to 5 p.m. Reservations can be made on Resy. Walk-ins are welcome. https://www.agnesla.com. $$-$$$ 40 W. Green St., (626)389-3839.

This review was also featured in the Beverly Press on July 13, 2023.