Osteria Mamma offers a symphony of flavors

Recently Mamma Osteria received the 2023 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. It’s their 8th year to receive this prestigious award, thanks to Filippo Cortivo, a certified sommelier and owner of Osteria Mamma. Originally opened by Mamma Loredana in 2010, Cortivo now runs his family’s restaurant in a friendly and efficient manner.

Filippo Cortivo is a certified sommelier and owner of Osteria Mamma.

Located on the corner of Melrose and Lucerne near Larchmont, locals have enjoyed the traditional Italian fare and abundant selection of wines. Wine bottles line a wall in the dining room, inviting diners to exlopre their extensive list.

A series of photos adorn the walls, which makes for an eye-catching tribute to Mamma Loredana and her family. Adding photos to the panels made the boards not only efficient yet help tell the family’s story.

I noticed a small boy in two of the photos, and Cortivo said, “Yes that is me.” He also pointed to photos of Mamma Loredana.

“Even though she is no longer with us, her traditions and memories live on at Osteria Mamma,” he said.

Chef Matteo Di Nicola prepares the traditional Veneto Italian recipes that Mamma created in her Padua kitchen in Italy, before settling in Southern California.

In addition to the attractive dining room, an outdoor patio lets guests enjoy the Italian fare al fresco style.

Sitting outside at a table for two, Cortivo brought us two glasses of sparkling rosé to start our evening. He suggested pairing the bubbly with Frittura Mista and Bufala burrata crostini.

The crostini starter has ribbons of buttery 24 month-aged S. Daniele prosciutto slices on top of creamy white burrata cheese. Black truffle shavings heighten the umami flavor profile on the crunchy Italian bread.

We also enjoyed how the frittura mista was lightly fried and had two different dipping sauces. Not only did we discover clams and shrimp on the plate, but also zucchini, carrots and bell peppers.

The tri-color salad made with Treviso radicchio, Belgian endive and wild baby arugula, was dressed lightly and topped with shaved Grana Padano cheese.

Fifteen pasta dishes on the menu range from pappardelle with short rib to a very traditional all’amatriciana. The squid ink bigolotto nero pasta is tossed with shrimp and Calabrian chili. The creamy Reginette Della Mamma is made with Guanciale, sausage, radicchio and cream.

Many tables ordered the green colored Linguine al Pestaccio made with fresh pasta and topped with a light basil and arugula pesto, crunchy toasted almonds, Parmigiano cheese and bright red and juicy cherry tomatoes halves. Mamma’s lasagna is different than at other restaurants, as Chef Matteo adds their signature beef Bolognese to a crepe-style layers. and their Tagliatelle Alfredo is a recipe from the original Alfredo pasta made in Rome.

Pizza fans will like the flavorful Diavolina topped with spicy Soppressa Calabrese, black Taggiasca olives, buffalo mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, spicy Calabrian peppers and oregano.

A breaded chicken breast Milanese DOC with arugula, tomato and burrata is offered and they prepare a Mediterranean Branzino with cherry tomatoes, onion confit and broccoli rabe. Chef Matteo also grills a 22-ounce Creekstone prime bone-in New York for two people and serves it with potatoes and wild arugula with Parmesan cheese.

We finished with a slice of layered tiramisu topped with cocoa powder. Cortivio offered us two glasses of dark plum colored port to sip with our dessert. During Renaissance times, Venetians ate the coffee-enhanced desserts to give them energy, Cortivio said.

Other desserts on the menu include an apple and pear strudel with a scoop of vanilla gelato. As with any great Italian restaurant, one must finish with a sweet taste of Italy – a delicate cannolo. The crispy shell is filled with a creamy ricotta cheese, chocolate chips and a hint of orange zest.

Osteria Mamma continues to provide Mamma’s lovely symphony of Italian flavors with every bite.  $$-$$$ 5732 Melrose Ave (323)284-7060.

This review was also featured in the Beverly Press, July 2023.

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