Summer Mediterranean Dining at Bacari

I felt as if I was dining in the Mediterranean, not in Sherman Oaks, when I entered the latest Bacari restaurant, with the rustic wooden front door that sits at the end of brick pathway through a white wall tunnel with decorative tiles.

We sat at a table for two in the picturesque courtyard with flowers and greenery filling the patio. Bright red umbrellas offer shade before the sun sets and the air cools.

The Bacari team – Danny and Robert Kronfli and executive chef-partner Lior Hillel – worked with M. Winter Design to transform the beloved Rive Gauche 1920s building and space.

Since Bacari opened its first location in West Adams in 2008, the team has catered to the local community, prioritizing the neighborhood’s personality. As a fan of the restaurant concept, I was eager to visit their sixth Bacari location.

“The overall aesthetic of the space is supposed to feel like a cozy, back-alley Venetian café,” said Matt Winter, founder and interior designer at M. Winter Design. “We wanted to honor the building’s architecture and have the atmosphere feel familiar to the neighborhood, so we restored as many original materials as possible. Our goal with Bacari is to create a backyard feel that’s fun, casual and familiar for everyone.”

While it recreates the same grand entrance and quaint patio feel as their 3rd St. and Silver Lake locations, the interior dining areas are a little different. Bacari has a pretty sunroom with large windows. Another building across the brick patio has a cozy bar and lounge area with live music on Thursday through Saturday.

The menu crafted by Israeli-born Chef Lior Hillel features some of Bacari’s most often ordered share plates. Shawarma tacos, ricotta and beet gnocchi, and pistachio lamb kebab are featured dishes on the menu. Chef Hillel has introduced some new summer items that include taramasalata, papas bravas, lamb hummus and a Little Gem salad.

All locations offer a unique beverage program utilizing fresh pressed juices, house-made syrups and bitters. Beverage directors Caleb Burbey and Erin Earl make an array of colorful and appealing cocktails. We ordered a bright red Bacarita made with tequila, basil, a jalapeño, watermelon juice and agave. A slice of lime and watermelon wedge garnish the drink. A pretty pink watermelon mocktail called the Socal Staple is crafted with watermelon juice, mint, lime and orange Tajin crystals around the rim with a watermelon triangle for garnish. A list of small-production funky wines, sangria and a variety of beers are offered. During Bacari’s one-of-a-kind 90-minute open bar special, guests can order house red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, mimosa and bellini, sangria and Bacari beer for $30 per person.

Our friendly server Taylor suggested we start with the new whipped salted cod caviar taramasalata dip, the rainbow beet salad and a Little Gem salad.

The taramasalata, a salty fish enhanced dip, is served with pita triangles and fresh crudites. The Little Gem salad is dressed with a light Parmesan vinaigrette. Grilled pickled fennel and crunchy pita croutons on top are a nice touch.

A plate of colorful oven roasted beets were sliced in quarters and placed strategically on whipped goat cheese with a sprinkling of tarragon and a splash of Frantoia olive oil. Crushed black peppercorn and a pinch of gray salt heightened the earthy flavors.

A few heartier dishes include Bacari’s papas bravas that arrive piping hot. We dipped the cubes of potato and parsnips and swirled them in the accompanying creme fraiche. Drops of orange aioli, pink pickled onions and a sprinkling of green herbs enhance the pleasing potato plate.

We also enjoyed the Jenga-looking polenta fries dusted in garlic, green herbs and parmesan. The crispy on the outside polenta sticks are served with a bright orange Calabrian aioli dip.

Tender scallops in a beurre fondue were accompanied with grilled summer corn cut off the cob and sliced cherry tomatoes and scallions.

Six pizzas are offered on the menu. The Asian pear and brie pizza looked the most appealing to me. The thin and crispy crust had brush of guava fromage blanc before being topped with thin slices of pear, melted brie cheese, a handful of curly wild arugula and a sprinkling of grey salt crystals and Frantoia olive oil. Other pizzas include bacon and double cream; smoked mushroom and a vegan pizza. All can be made with gluten-free dough too.

We finished with Chef Hillel’s favorite and most refreshing dessert, Malabi. Served in a glass, the treat is made with rosewater custard, shaved coconut, hibiscus and candied pistachio. Other desserts on the menu include The Best Cake made with Medjool dates, brown sugar caramel and chopped crispy bacon. They also have a double chocolate cake made with chocolate pudding and hazelnut brittle.

Summer is an ideal time to visit any of the Bacari locations. The healthy and savory menu items are meant to be shared with the entire table. Whether you’re on a date, catching up with friends or enjoying a lovely evening with family, Bacari offers something for everyone’s palate.

Bacari Sherman Oaks is open for brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and dinner on Monday through Wednesday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Bacari Sherman Oaks remains open for bar service on Thursday until 12 a.m., and Friday and Saturday between 12:30 to 1 a.m. with live music and entertainment. Sunday dinner is from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Walk-ins are always welcome, but reservations are highly recommended.

$$ eatwithbacari.com. 14106 Ventura Blvd., (213)318-0132. Other Bacari locations include 8030 3/4 W. 3rd St., (213)933-2327, 3626 Sunset Blvd., (323)410-7304, 2308 S. Union Ave., (213)459-1899.

This review was also featured in the Beverly Press on August 10, 2023.

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