Every time I walk in Beverly Hills along Beverly Drive, near Wilshire Boulevard, I hear people conversing, laughing and clinking wine glasses behind a row of privacy plants in front of Avra Restaurant. The outdoor dining terrace is always filled with exuberant diners.

I was curious to see why this restaurant is so lively, so my husband and I dined there to see what the Opa is all about.

The sand hue modern interior, which includes whitewashed stone and wood grain flooring, is immediately inviting. Alabaster walls, hanging greenery and tall trees in the center of the dining room are illuminated under glass dome skylights.

Our server led us to the fish marketplace near the bar and kitchen, where at least 100 of fresh whole fish are beautifully displayed on top of crushed ice. The fish is flown in daily from Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Florida and New Zealand. A row of rare Mediterranean fagri, known as the “King of the Aegean Sea” was next to a row of dorado and octopi.

Looking at the price per pound, enormous red carabineros shrimp were $150 a pound the evening we dined. Beautifully stripped tan and dark brown tiger prawns were $99.95 per pound. Our server said they are grilled, and served with the head-on, providing bold flavors and an appealing texture.

Tins of Ikraa caviar on ice are near long and spiny crab legs. Sinagrida fish is known for its moist, mild and sweet flavors. Wild Southern Spanish branzino was near a row of cold-water Northern Sea Dover sole.

“The sole offers a firm and flakey texture and delicate nutty taste,” our server said.

The fish is sold by the pound at market price, then taken into the kitchen to be deboned. The chefs splash extra virgin olive oil on top made from the finest Koroneiki olives, providing a delicious fruity flavor. Then the fish receives a sprinkling of wild-grown Grecian oregano, before it is cooked over charcoal.

Stories have been told that this type of oregano was created by Aphrodite as a symbol of happiness. Grown in Mt. Taygetos nutrient soil, it also is sprinkled on vine-ripe imported tomatoes and other Avra menu items.

Avra Beverly Hills is a dream of co-founder Nick Tsoulos. As a little boy, he fished with his father and uncles in Greece. They would bring their catch of the day home to be prepared for the evening meal. He was so fond of this memory that Tsoulos wanted to recreate the same family recipes and dishes and open a seaside taverna in the coastal Greek Village of Nafpaktos. He named it Avra and enjoyed its success.

When he immigrated to New York, he opened Trata, a Greek taverna on Manhattan’s Upper East Side in the 1990s. Then in 2000, he opened Avra in Miami, and another one in New York at Rockefeller Center. He now has five Avra restaurants in the U.S.

Sitting at our table, a wood plate filled with crunchy housemade grilled flat pita bread and a trio of Greek nibbles was delivered, including a creamy hummus dip with a spot of balsamic and a single garbanzo bean, a handful of plump and meaty green Greek olives and slender purple kalamata olives. Crisp bright red and white radish bite-size quarters were fresh and zesty.

On the menu it states, “In the Greek tradition, sharing food embraces the dining experience.” While enjoying the amuse-bouche items, we glanced at “A Guide to Greek Whites” wine menu with more than 30 wine-by-the-glass options.

An extensive wine list includes more than 1,200 bottles of wine, including collector wines and hard-to-find labels.

Avra features their own Assyrtiko wine from Santorini. Made in the Cyclades, Santorini’s volcanic soil produces some of the most popular Greek white wines using harvested Assytiko grapes. These wines offer a bright acidity with hints of citrus notes. The minerality in this wine is ideal to enjoy with seafood. It’s full bodied, gold in color and offers a whisper of pear and jasmine notes.

The guide also introduces wine drinkers to the Drama area of Macedonia where they make the finest Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Also indigenous to Greece is Retsina, that is made just like white wine, yet pine resin is added before fermentation as a preservative. The region also makes an aromatic Malagouzia with medium acidity and exotic fruit aromas. This wine pairs nicely with the four salads on the menu, including an Israeli salad made with chopped tomatoes, cucumber, cabbage and parsley.

Appetizers on the menu include lightly fried Kefalograviera cheese, known as Saganaki. It’s topped with a squeeze of lemon and Grecian oregano, and they also make a Manouri Saganaki made with manouri cheese, filo dough and a splash of balsamic glaze. The grilled haloumi is a Greek favorite, offering a caramelized orange zest flavor with every bite.

My husband ordered the grilled Spanish jumbo octopus that was sliced thin into bite-size pieces and served on a plate with a long tentacle. Chopped yellow and red peppers and capers dazzle this dish.

Instead of ordering a whole fish, we ordered a halibut filet that was charcoal grilled and topped with capers. On the side was a surprisingly flavorful spanakorizo made with green spinach, onions and golden raisins.

I ordered the grilled Faroe Islands salmon that was served with a flavorful tomato and green bean salad. I also ordered a side of the meaty gigante baked beans in a lovely tomato sauce.

For additional options, the menu offers Australian lamb chops and various cuts of beef, including filet mignon from small ranches in the United States.

We finished with an olive oil cake and a slice of delicious walnut cake. Both were served with a scoop of French vanilla ice cream flecked with Tahitian vanilla beans and topped with a sprig of fresh mint.

Avra Beverly Hills transports diners to the islands of Greece. With the holidays approaching, it’s an ideal celebratory venue. They have an intimate Beverly Room that can seat up to 22 guests. The private Wine Villa seats up to 36 guests, and their Art Villa is ideal for larger parties of up to 80 guests. For lavish affairs guests can reserve the entire restaurant which can accommodate up to 500 guests.

Avra is open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. On Friday and Saturday, the restaurant closes at 11 p.m. $$$ 233 N. Beverly Drive, (310)734-0841.

This review was featured in the Beverly Press – https://beverlypress.com/2023/10/mediterranean-avra-beverly-hills/.