At Cliff’s Edge, located in Sunset Junction in Silver Lake, new chef Will Kelly has crafted a soulful menu for diners to enjoy, whether they sit inside at the bar and lounge or outdoors on the enchanting patio. A multi-level utopian dining area is filled with brightly colored floral accent pillows and lush greenery, and the patio is bordered with a forest of thick bamboo stalks and lush flowering fauna to provide privacy from nearby Sunset Boulevard. Twinkle lights hang around a towering ancient tree, offering a romantic ambiance for those sitting under its large spreading branches.
There is something for everyone on this Californian menu, including those with dietary restrictions.
Our group started with fresh briny oysters served with a red wine mignonette, cocktail sauce and squeeze of lemon. Since almost every table had a pan of fresh out-of-the-oven Parker House rolls, we ordered them too. They arrived glazed with a semi-salted Beurre Bordier butter and dusting of parmesan.
We enjoyed the rolls with a variety of warm olives that included Spanish Cornicabra and meaty Gordal olives, the “queen of olives,” a few French Picholine cocktail olives and green, crisp Castelvetrano olives. My favorites were the distinctly deep red Italian Taggiasche, which offer a sweet and fruity essence with hints of nutty almond.
Since two of our friends are vegetarians, they ordered the harissa carrots, which were sweetened with a little honey and dollop of creamy lebni yogurt. They also ordered the sprouting multicolored cauliflower, which was dazzled with bagna cauda – a “hot bath” mixture of garlic and anchovies – and fennel, mint and a little bit of Calabrian chili. The Brussels sprouts come with chopped Marcona almonds, lemon and a balsamic drizzle.
At Cliff’s Edge, the chef makes handmade pasta daily, so we ordered two different types: the wild mushroom pappardelle, which included bits of charred kale, parmesan and crème fraiche, and the black squid ink seafood fettuccine. The squid ink pasta comes with clams and mussels, as well as a kick of heat from the small Calabrian chili that is spicy, smoky and even has a fruity taste. This pasta dish is finished with a squeeze of lemon for acid and fennel pollen dusting.
Cliff’s Edge offers a variety of meat options as well. My husband ordered the duck breast, which was served with smoked currants, braised endive, Brussels sprouts and a sweet potato base. Braised spigarello, a cousin to broccoli that features long stems and curled green leaves, accompanied the duck.
Other proteins include bone-in New York strip, the adobo-rubbed half chicken, and short rib served with celery root, chanterelles, sprouted cauliflower and a lovely jus.
Since we were celebrating a birthday, we splurged and ordered a luscious chocolate pot de creme topped with cardamom whipped cream, tiny cocoa nibs and chopped candied orange.
The restaurant offers more than just dinner. During the weekend, Cliff’s Edge serves a variety of enticing brunch fare, including lemon and ricotta pancakes, eggs Benedict, shrimp and grits, and apple cinnamon French toast. Brunch drinks include kimchi bloody marys, white wine sangria, Micheladas, and orange, grapefruit or passion fruit mimosas. Make a reservation for Mother’s Day to treat that special woman in your life.
Dinner hours are 6 to 10:30 p.m. from Monday through Thursday. On Fridays and Saturdays, the restaurant stays open until 11 p.m. Bar hours are 6 p.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday, but on Fridays and Saturdays, the bar stays open until 2 a.m. Weekend brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. $$ 3626 W. Sunset Blvd., (323)666-6116.
This was featured in the Beverly Press and Park LaBrea News on April 25, 2019.